Bali: Hindu Holy Spring Water Shrine

July 10, 2010

The Hindu Holy Spring Water Shrine, north of Ubud, is a mecca for many Balinese, most of whom are Hindu. They come from all over, believing that a bath in the spring water will turn their luck from bad to good. They also come to collect big bottles of the spring water for cremations, to wash the dead body to make sure the person’s soul goes to a good place, like to become a monkey rather than a roach in their next life.

Sitting in the heat, we all watched the adults, kids, babies, elderly go into the spring water pool, carrying flower petal and food offerings to the gods. Griffin watched them with envy then said he was going in. Then, like clockwork, Boom chimed that he was going in. Kenny hesitantly said he’d be willing to also. For the spring, sarongs were required. Agung rented each of them a sarong, so we thought we’d be in good with the “sarong police,” but no.

Right after the boys changed into the sarong, next to the pool, an unofficial village shrine police volunteer (see picture above of only unsmiling Balinese we ever met) came over with his compatriot and had the first heated discussion we’d seen in Bali. You see, Balinese place lots of cultural sanctions on displays of aggression, to the point that they have a tooth-filing ritual that files away 13 year olds’ canine teeth since they think they look aggressive. Even for the mildest disagreement, the Balinese person would just dissolve into giggles with us. But, these villagers were upset, and they let Agung know that we should not change clothes next to the holy spring pool. That was sacreligious.

Then, Grif, Boom, and Ken went in, with their sarongs on, with their underwear peeking out as their sarongs floated through the water. They started with the first of about 20 spring water fountains and systematically dunked their heads under each one, waiting in line for each subsequent fountain. Griffin showed me how they do it – first pray with your hands together, then stick your head under the water, completely.

At the end, they were thoroughly drenched and COLD, for the first and last time in hot Bali. But, Ken said the experience felt powerful. Griffin seemed calm and centered. And, Boom looked excited enough to jump a cannonball back into the holy pool. All 3 carefully dripped their way to the lockers and made sure they changed out of sight of the shrine police.