Hoi An, Vietnam: Fish Market SLIP!

January 6, 2011

I told you I love to run early in the mornings when we travel. I see the cities when they are not bustling, but, rather, are quiet and filled with locals exercising or setting up the market. Hoi An may have been my favorite early morning runs. I left at 5:30am one morning, still dark, and ran through the market. The market was BUSY that early, with women selling vegetables via flashlight. I ran along the river and found the fishmongers with an incredible array of fish, including a shark! I knew Boom was fascinated with sharks (not a coincidence that he's also so curious about death), so I made a note to take him later to see the shark for sale.

When we got to the market, Boom insisted we head straight to the shark seller. We saw the shark, then she cut off his head right in front of us. Then she started cutting him up into pieces. I've never seen Boom so fascinated. Enthralled. He saw the inside of the shark, including the organs. He saw the shark's belly filled with big, but smaller, fish. We wondered if they were shark babies.

Then we walked along more fish mongers. Right after our guide warned us that it was slippery (with fish sludge!), Boom and Alice slipped. And, I mean a dramatic, long slip with all the fishmongers watching. There was a collective Vietnamese gasp! Everyone was appalled and rushed forth. They were especially concerned since Alice and Boom were clearly wearing brand spanking new silk Chinese pajamas that were now covered in fish slime. They actually reeked of fish.

The fishmongers briskly went into action. Alice and Boom had no choice but to submit. The mongers got their waterpails and started cleaning Alice and Boom with their washcloths, constantly chatting to each other, cooing, and giggling in Vietnamese.

Alice could handle the mass attention, with her typical composure and aplomb. But, Boom could barely suppress a sob. He was so overwhelmed by the slip, the embarrassment, and the fawning crowds cleaning him. He looked at me, with an appeal in his eyes, then grabbed Alice's hand for emotional support.

In the end, I suspect that we were the story the fishmongers told to their children over their evening fish dinner -- titled, "The tale of the foolish shark-loving American boy's slip," as a lesson to their fish market-bound children.

Click HERE for a video of the fishmonger women fussing over, washing and cleaning Alice and Boom, as if they were cleaning a piece of their best fish.